Going Underground


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Source: Rastvoritel (Instagram), 7 September 2026. Translated by the Russian Reader


KYIV, Ukraine – It’s the last evening of my vacation.

I’m sitting in a taxi taking me to the Lviv railway station so I can return to Kyiv, and I can’t hold back my tears.

It’s not that I’m sad about returning to work and my normal routine. But when I get home, I know I won’t be able to sleep in my own bed. Once a cozy little nest, my own bed is now a place of constant fear, where even the deepest sleep comes at the risk of a ballistic missile or drone attack. I don’t trust monitoring channels anymore. I don’t trust anyone, except this primal fear that fills every cell of my body as soon as it starts getting dark.

And this fear is warranted. Russia has spent the whole summer launching large-scale ballistic missile attacks on Kyiv, taking advantage of Ukraine’s shortage of interceptors. They also used drones, including jet-powered Shaheds. Russia ramped up its missile production and also relies on North Korean missiles to intensify the attacks.

On top of that, Moscow seems to be adopting a new tactic, launching jet-powered drones throughout the whole day to paralyze the entire city. On August 27, there were 13 air raid alerts in Kyiv — a record-setting number of attacks lasting more than half a day. Since then, the attacks have been almost non-stop.

Basements and underground parking garages no longer feel safe enough. That’s why more and more Kyiv residents have started spending the night in the metro, often heading down there even before an air raid alert is issued.

A person checks a smartphone and others sleep as they take shelter overnight in a Kyiv metro station. Photo by Serhii Okunev/AFP via Getty Images and The Counteroffensive

Even when there’s no attack, people would rather spend a night in the metro than wake up suddenly to explosions in their own bed, unprotected.

Zoriana can’t sleep well anymore as the constant threat takes its toll

Night strikes started happening more and more in July.

I took the first few nights of ballistic attacks as something I simply had to accept. Last year, Russia had also stepped up its attacks on Kyiv during the summer, so I was mentally prepared for it.

But this time, they started using ballistic missiles more often.

I told myself that they would run out soon, since ballistic missiles are very expensive, while flinching at every new explosion in my bathroom.

But it only got worse.

Notifications about air raid alerts have become useless, as they only give two minutes before the first explosions, which can mean an endless night of hundreds of those two-minute windows and lots of panicked running.

So I couldn’t sleep well anymore.

My psychologist suggested breathing exercises and a ritual to help me calm down. But when I tried that, all I could hear was how hard my heart was beating.

That’s how my bed turned into a place of tormented waiting. Waiting for loud explosions and … my own death.

So I started going to the metro, regardless of whether there are air raid alerts or not.

Mariana wasn’t afraid of air raid alerts until this summer

I used to be pretty calm about air raid alerts. I went to the basement only a few times at the beginning of the war, when every alert was new and seemed scary and dangerous. But luckily, my hometown of Vinnytsia didn’t get attacked much. So I stopped going to the shelter and just continued on with my life, despite sometimes hearing the sounds of faraway explosions.

When I moved to Kyiv in 2023, I was a bit more cautious.

At night, the corridor became my sleeping spot during attacks. And although the explosions became more frequent, I still didn’t care enough to disrupt my sleep and go somewhere safer to hide.

But constantly seeing news of residential buildings completely ruined after massive attacks on Kyiv made me feel like the corridor was not enough. So in June, I started going to the shelter.

Zoriana wonders why she pays rent when she sleeps in the metro every night

People can go into the metro and stay overnight even without an air raid alert. Of course, you can wait and go once the alert starts, but I definitely can’t make it there in two minutes — the approximate time of a ballistic missile’s approach.

That’s why, at 10 p.m. every day, I have to decide whether or not to spend the night in the metro.

Without an attack warning, there aren’t that many people in the metro — typically around 30. I have already started to recognize a few familiar faces, and every evening we exchange a tired smile. But when there’s word of a massive attack coming, there’s not even enough room to drop a pin.

I have a separate warm tracksuit that I sleep in at the metro, my own folding bed, a comfortable pillow and a blanket. I always bring a thermos of tea, too.

But the constant thoughts never go away: maybe it will be quiet and I can stay home; maybe it won’t, and then it will be sheer terror.

Mariana sleeps better on hard school chairs than in a cozy bed at home

When I go home by metro at night, I see some people preparing to sleep there. They set up an improvised camp using mats, pillows and blankets. But even the metro can’t guarantee us complete safety.

At the end of July, the vestibule of the Lukianivska metro station, which I always use when commuting to my university, was damaged. At the time, people were sheltering there from the attack.

Since the closest metro station is 15 minutes from where I live, I go to the basement of a nearby school. I always bring a bottle of water and a sleeping bag with a pillow — they help me feel a little bit more comfortable while lying on hard school chairs.

I constantly check the Telegram channels that monitor incoming attacks, while other people in the basement whisper among themselves or snore. I hear the explosions outside, but it seems like the missiles can’t reach me in the shelter.

Eventually exhaustion gets the better of me and I fall into a restless sleep until I hear the all-clear signal. But I don’t leave the shelter right away. The thought of having to come back again because of another attack makes me stay until 4 a.m., the time when I for some reason feel that the threat is over.

With drones being launched constantly now, there’s no period of time that is truly safe. A new alert can come at any time, day or night. And when that happens, I’m too exhausted to care. I stay in my corridor and listen to the explosions, just hoping that I’ll be lucky and not get hit.

I’m consumed by only anxiety and exhaustion now, and whichever feeling is more intense at any given time is what dictates how I respond.

Zoriana fears this living nightmare made her a bad person

For the past two months, I haven’t been able to rest at all. There are no weekends or weekdays anymore, only day and night. Days filled with anxiety about my life. Nights full of fear and uncertainty.

And, strangely, I felt the worst when there was no attack. Exhausted, I walked home from the metro at 6 a.m. after taking shelter there overnight. That was when I caught myself thinking that I was sorry there had been no attack. I had wasted my night, and they hadn’t even bombed us. A second later, I burst into tears over that intrusive thought. How could I be disappointed that there was no attack? Am I really such a horrible person?

That was when I realized how much this is destroying me, dissolving everything joyful and bright that I had spent years filling my soul with.

It has been two weeks since my vacation ended, and I have slept alone in my apartment only twice.

I am still in Kyiv, trying to keep living my life. For how long? We’ll see.

And even as I write this right now, I’m packing my things for another night in the metro.

Source: Zoriana Semenovych and Mariana Stadnyk, “Why pay rent just to sleep in the metro,” The Counteroffensive with Tim Mak, 10 September 2026. As a paying subscriber to this Substack-based journal, I’m happy to share it with my own readers occasionally. ||||| TRR

Leave the Capitol

A view of Nevsky Prospect, Petersburg’s main thoroughfare, with the Russian National Library (the so-called Publichka), Gostiny Dvor shopping center, the tower of the former City Duma building, the cupola of Kazan Cathedral, and the cupola of St. Isaac’s Cathedral visible on the left in ascending. This picture-perfect cityscape was used by the Facebook page I Love St. Petersburg to illustrate the bizarre, banal, pseudo-historical sentiment that I’ve translated, below. Petersburg was built on the land of the Ingrian people and the captured Swedish fortress of Nyenskans. Or rather, that’s a no less valid way of putting it.

St. Petersburg is the only European capital that has not been captured by the enemy in any period of history.

Source: I Love St. Petersburg (@spb.love.you), Facebook, 13 August 2022. Translated by the Russian Reader


(Upper left, in Russian) “Kiev is the mother of Russian cities.”
(Lower right, in Ukrainian) “If I had known, I would have had an abortion.”

Source: Petya Pyatochkin, Facebook, 12 August 2022. Thanks to Volodya Y. for the heads-up. Translated by the Russian Reader


Leave the Capitol

Lyrics

(1)

The tables covered in beer
Showbiz whines, minute detail (2)
Hand on the shoulder in Leicester Square (3)
It’s vaudeville pub back room dusty pictures of
White frocked girls and music teachers
The beds too clean
Water’s poisonous for the system (4)

And you know in your brain
Leave the capitol!   (5)
Exit this Roman Shell!   (6)
Then you know you must leave the capitol

Straight home, straight home, straight home
One room, one room  (7)

Continue reading “Leave the Capitol”

This Silence

Update: 20 people are dead, 3 children including. 90 people are fighting for their lives.

Imagine Vienna being bombed like that. Or Paris. Or NYC.

Vinnytsia, a city in Central Ukraine, was bombed today. 8 people are murdered. 30 — injured.

Meanwhile, fucking Russia is bombing schools, shopping malls, museums in Ukraine. Every fucking day. And y’all are silent. I wish I knew what is international solidarity, but now it seems like a joke.

There is something extremely wrong about it. This silence I am not ready to face. 9/11 is an everyday reality in Ukraine.

Source: Yulia Kishchuk, Facebook, 14 July 2022


Virtuoso photographer Alexander Petrosyan posted this picture of four generations of Petersburgers peacefully and safely riding the tram in Russia’s Northern Capital earlier today on Facebook.


Vinnytsia is a mere 1,400 kilometers (870 miles) straight south of Saint Petersburg on the E95. Image courtesy of Google Maps

The Social Network

Alexander Petrosyan
Facebook
February 16, 2022

How intoxicating the evenings in Russia are

Comments

Omar Bayramov
I’ve never commented on your photos before, Alexander. I’ll now probably incite a whole wave of indignation against myself, but I’m going to say it anyway. I’ve been living in this city for 25 years out of 40 and I can definitely say that I hate it. I try not to be outside unnecessarily, everything I see in my midst is disgusting. Thank you for your photos.

Author
Alexander Petrosyan
I think that here, like everywhere, you can find both things to love and things to hate. It depends on your current state of mind.

Translated by the Russian Reader

The City of St. Peter the Apostle

MBKh Media Northwest
Facebook
February 12, 2021

On Palace Square, accompanied by an orchestra, Vyacheslav Makarov, chair of the Saint Petersburg Legislative Assembly, presented letters of thanks and certificates of honor to the soldiers and officers of the Special Police Regiment who worked at the pro-Navalny protest rallies. This news was reported on the parliament’s website.

“Your faithfulness to the call of duty and exemplary attitude to the performance of your duties vouchsafes the defense of law and order, and the protection of the lives and safety of our citizens. You have been entrusted with the huge responsibility of being the guardians of our beloved city of St. Peter the Apostle,” Makarov said.

According to OVD Info, the security forces detained 575 people at the protest rally on January 23 in St. Petersburg, and 1,336 people at the rally on January 31.

Photos courtesy of the Saint Petersburg Legislative Assembly’s website. Thanks to Nancy Enskaya for the link. Translated by the Russian Reader

The Empire Strikes Back

. . . in the heart of the old imperial capital, Saint Petersburg.

We can thank Vladislav Ivanov for the “footage.” (And I thank Grigory Mikhnov-Vaytenko for sharing it with me.) In keeping with the message of this video, if not its jocular tone, a friend in Petersburg just wrote to me, “Tomorrow we are going for a ‘walk’ on the Nevsky. It was already flooded with police and National Guardsman on Saturday. It’s scary. But we try and overcome our fear, taking our cue from the younger generation.” \\ TRR

 

International Women’s Day in St. Petersburg: Defying the Ban

88325787_2658545944242554_2755934399055790080_oFeminist activists queuing to picket at International Woman’s Day protest on the corner of Malaya Sadovaya and Nevsky in Petersburg. Photo by AnFem

AN-FEM
Facebook
March 8, 2020

The Banned Eighth of March, Petersburg

Once upon a time, the danger and risk in men’s lives were considered the basis of their alleged superiority over women. Only those who walked the razor’s edge looked danger and even death in the face and were thus spiritually elevated.

87848158_2658538717576610_6222493887676547072_o“My body is my business.” Picketer at International Women’s Day protest in Petersburg. Photo by AnFem

When today, International Women’s Day, the Petersburg authorities have used the pretext of events that did not even take place, including the Shoulder to Lean On Festival, to prohibit women from publicly speaking out about the issues that matter to them in any way, all that remained for them was step onto their own razor’s edge and take to the streets, risking their own safety and freedom, and thus one more time (if someone has not heard the argument) assert that archaic segregation is unacceptable.

87825064_2658538424243306_3785326012800172032_o

Because, under these circumstances, each step is a small victory. Among other things, it is a victory over oneself and one’s own fear. Each step is a reclaimed meter of urban space that should belong to people, but does not belong to them. It is a small step towards freedom, a step toward oneself — through the political, through the raucous intrusion into the chronotope of a spring day somewhere in the middle of an ugly regime. A small step into our common holiday. No one is free until everyone is free.

Photo reportage by AnFem

87905423_2658546174242531_2565779528093794304_o“On March 8, I think about women political prisoners, not spring.” Picketer at International Women’s Day protest in Petersburg. Photo by AnFem

Female Activists Hold Flash Mob Dance on the Field of Mars to Protest Violence Against Women; Pickets Held on Nevsky Prospect
Bumaga
March 8, 2020

MBKh Media reports that a feminist protest rally has taken place on the Field of Mars during which female activists played drums and performed chants protesting violence against women.

89773349_2658536790910136_7501581396633190400_o

The rally featured a dance flash mob. The girls [sic] chanted such lines, in particular, as “The patriarchy is a judge / that judges me for being born. / And my punishment is / violence day after day.” As MBKh Media reports, the Petersburg women borrowed the idea from Chilean feminists.

88336060_2658532417577240_2627163952307503104_oFeminist activists performing a flash mob dance and chant on the Field of Mars in Petersburg. Photo by AnFem

In addition, a series of pickets took place on the corner of Nevsky Prospect and Malaya Sadovaya, reports the web publication Sever.Realii. The picketers protested domestic violence and the law against “promotion” of homosexual relations, and in support of female political prisoners. Protest organizers had originally planned a rally [on Lenin Square], but city authorities refused to sanction it.

Thanks to AnFem for the photos and the first text. Translated by the Russian Reader

Picketing in Petersburg for the People of Idlib

idlib 5

Movement of Conscientious Objectors (DSO)
Jan 8, 2020
vk.com

“Done!” An Anti-War Picket on Christmas

Members of the Movement of Conscientious Objectors to Military Service held solo pickets on the evening of January 7 outside the headquarters of the Western Military District on Palace Square in Saint Petersburg. The decision to hold an anti-war picket demanding an end to the bombing of people in the Syrian province of Idlib was prompted by a series of articles in Novaya Gazeta about the actions of the Russian military.

idlib 1

Clockwise from upper left-hand corner: “Bombs don’t solve anything!” “Stop bombing for peace!” “Don’t serve war! Don’t join the army!” “Idlib needs medical care, food, and shelter—not bombs!”

We chatted online with Amir al Muarri, a musician from Idlib, and went out to picket on [Russian Orthodox] Christmas day.

As can be clearly heard in a recording of communications between Russian pilots and headquarters, they say, “Package received. Adjusting course. Counting down. Jackpot.”

They then release a missile that brings death, blood, and destruction to people.

After the missile has hit the target, a pilot reports, “Done.”

idlib 2

“Idlib! We are against bombing. I’m ashamed of my country.”

It is a pity we did not think to write these words in Arabic, only in English.

Read more about the situation in the Syrian province of Idlib in Novaya Gazeta.

idlib 3

As practice has shown, there are always people who start writing comments like “Where is the evidence?” I would like to reply, Do you see microbes? No. Then how do you know they exist? You believe scientists who have studied this question and shaped scientific opinion. It is the same with many other questions. I don’t claim to have researched all the questions in the world by myself. On this particular issue, I trust the journalists at Novaya Gazeta, in particular, Elena Milashina, who has studied the subject and authored a number of articles on it.

idlib 4

As for remarks that the American military is also bombing and killing people, I would reply that a pacifist’s uppermost concern should be criticizing the policy of war waged in the name of his or her country.

Otherwise, it is like the old Soviet joke. “We can also go out onto Red Square, shout that the US president is a fool, and get away with it scot-free.”

Or it is like in the famous song by Alexander Galich in which the narrator reads out a prepared speech written for a woman whom he urgently had to replace: “The whole world knows the Israeli warmongers. / I say, as a woman and a mother, / They must be brought to justice.”

Thanks to Comrade Koganzon for the heads-up. Photos courtesy of the Movement of Conscientious Objectors (DSO). Translated by the Russian Reader

Keep Calm and Carry On

klebanov-flyer

My friend Vadim Klebanov found this flyer posted in a hospital in Petersburg’s Admiralty District the other day. It reads:

Dear Residents of the Admiralty District!

Due the tense socio-political situation in the world we ask you to

  • pay more attention to the entryways and surroundings of your buildings.
  • pay special attention to abandoned things and items (sacks, plastic bags, boxes, etc.)

as well as immediately informing us of

  • empty premises and rented premises
  • suspicious persons
  • the addresses of buildings where there are unlocked attics and basements
  • abandoned cars parked next to residential buildings, schools, kindergartens, hospitals, and other public buildings

Maintain vigilance, stamina and calm.

Contact telephone numbers (24/7):
Admiralty District Internal Affairs Office     316-0202
1st Police Precinct     573-0210
2nd Police Precinct    314-0202
38th Police Precinct    573-0283
77th Police Precinct    573-0304

Admiralty District Council Hotline     316-0500

____________________________

Thanks to Vadim Klebanov for spotting the flyer, posting it on Facebook, and permitting me to reproduce it here. Translated by the Russian Reader